A major musical highlight in Lagos is the monthly
Afropolitan Vibes show at Freedom Park.
It is a chance for lovers of live music - no artificial,
auto-tuned voices here - to blow off steam with the option of a calabash of
fresh palm wine.
But some of the revellers may not realise the dance floor
has history. It is the exact spot where for many years female prisoners were
incarcerated in what was then Broad Street Prison.
The clue is in the thick white wall surrounding the
compound.
This was the first of Her Majesty's Prisons to be
established after the British navy had captured the town and set up Lagos
Colony in 1861.
The initial prison structure was built in 1882 with mud
walls and grass thatch but did not last long as it was an easy target for
anti-colonialists.
"What was even more remarkable was the bricks were
imported for £16,000 and that year the British spent £700 on education in the
colony, so it shows the priority then was on law and order," says Mr
Lawson, who drew up the plans to turn the former prison into Freedom Park.
The prison was often set on fire by anti-colonial forces so
bricks were imported at great expense to rebuild it
The Colonial report for 1898 tells us that 676 males, 26
females, and 11 juveniles were imprisoned at Broad Street during the year.
It was very shocking indeed - to watch this guy being
brought in, cloth over his head and then prayers for him”
They would have been arrested by the Hausa force - the
colonisers deliberately chose military recruits from northern Nigeria in order
to have a disconnect between the local population and the personnel tasked with
imposing law and order and violently suppressing any resistance to their rule.
At the time, the colonial powers were keen to protect the
flourishing trade between Britain and Lagos and expand into the interior.
Records from 1897 show that goods valued at precisely
£892,863 came into Lagos port - the top two commodities being cotton goods
followed by wines and spirits.
Exports totalled £882,339 - a large chunk of which were palm
kernels for lubricating Britain's industrial machines and rubber.
Over the next few decades the prison housed several notable
thorns in the side of the British colonialists including the writer and
political activist Herbert Macaulay and Pa Michael Imoudu, a trade unionist who
led strikes in the 1940s and whose release prompted a massive anti-colonial
rally. The politician Obafemi Awolowo was also imprisoned in the 1960s.
In one corner of the prison is where condemned prisoners
were executed by hanging.
"It was very shocking indeed - to watch this guy being
brought in, cloth over his head and then prayers for him," recalled Kofi
Duncan, who worked as a doctor in the prisons in the early 1960s shortly after
independence.
"The guy who carried out the executions had to be
brought from northern Nigeria. He has to be somebody who knows nobody at
all," said Mr Duncan.
"All he has to do is come into this small room and when
they say 'go' he pulls and the trap door opens. Brrrrrm bang," he said,
adding that he then witnessed the prisoner's tremors and after one and a half
hours he had to do a medical examination to confirm he was dead.
Various developers were allocated the site and even brought
in their equipment but you know the history of Nigeria: Coup after coup and the
contracts were ripped up”
Architect Theo Lawson
Some of the last prisoners to be detained here were
separatists during Nigeria's post-independence civil war.
Broad Street Prison was pulled down in 1976 and Mr Duncan
remembers it becoming "a dumping ground and a place where highway robbers
were able to enjoy themselves".
In the 1990s, Mr Lawson had joined the CIA - not spying for
the Americans but working with other professionals in the Creative Intelligence
Agency to come up with ideas for the new millennium to improve Lagos.
Thanks to political upheavals the prison site had not become
yet another high rise office block.
"Various developers were allocated the site and even
brought in their equipment but you know the history of Nigeria: coup after coup
and the contracts were ripped up," says Mr Lawson.
Some members of the CIA focused on plans to reduce the
legendary traffic jams or go slows - Mr Lawson wanted to give the congested
city some breathing space.
He helped design a park which would be a home to the Arts
and a mirror for visitors to contemplate the city's history.
Graphic designer Ayodeji likes to work in one of the old
cells as he says it is a place of solace
"We didn't want to rebuild a prison. We wanted to
create a space that was a park where people could enjoy with reference to the
past without it being macabre," he says.
"So, where the kitchen used to be, we put the food
court. Where the records office was, we put a museum to tell the story and
where the gallows were we put a stage."
In the centre of Freedom Park one cell block has been
rebuilt and is a chilling reminder of the conditions. Each cell is just 1.2m x
2.4m (4ft x 8ft).
Even today the cells are not empty as some people use them
as a cramped place to work
It used to be a place of sorrow and with music we've been
able to transform it into a place of happiness”
"I find solace here to rest and focus on work. It' a
very iconic place," says graphic designer Ayodeji as he looks up from his
laptop.
"It's pretty difficult to position a table and chair in
it but because of what it represents I find comfort in it," he says as
people wander through the park taking in the latest photo exhibition.
"I think that the fact that the present band stand or
stage is where the gallows used to be is a perfect example of the palimpsest
that is the Freedom Park," says businessman and blogger Tunji Lardner.
"Lagosians have inscribed a new joyful narrative on
this colonial parchment, and its stories can only grow with time," he
says.
As the musicians keep belting out the music during, the
organiser of the Afropolitan Vibes event says it is a special place to perform.
"It used to be a place of sorrow and with music we've
been able to transform it into a place of happiness," says musician Ade
Bantu.
"All kinds of people mingle, interact and that's the
beauty of this space and I hope it stays like this for a very long time,"
he says as the crowd leaps up and down to the song, "Lagos Jumping."
Who would have thought Her Majesty's Prison would one day be
hosting such a party.
BBC
Good to see uncommon stories here, that make historical sense, good work!
ReplyDeleteGood to see uncommon stories here, that make historical sense, good work!
ReplyDeleteThank you @ Anon 19.35. Please keep visiting
ReplyDelete